![]() In 1904, several children’s deaths were attributed to hokey-pokey in New York. Ice cream in particular was often suspected to be a source of deadly food poisoning. Of course, it was a dangerous time for food in general. With an unsettling dose of anti-Italian sentiment, hokey-pokey ice cream was declared to be a danger to children. When the newspapers weren’t looking down on the quality of hokey-pokey, they were wringing their hands over its safety. The Milwaukee Weekly Wisconsin described the flavor of hokey-pokey in 1890 as “a mingled taste of paregoric, petroleum and tallow.” They did concede that it was a bargain at 2 cents a bar. The second mouthful is cool, but suggestive of oleomargerine the third is waxy and sticky and then you take the last with a wry face and are disgusted for buying it feel that it has upset your heart and that you never want any more again.“ It’s given to you on a piece of brown paper it looks fascinating… At first it is delightful. “ You lay down your penny you demand your square. A syndicated column in 1891 declared that love is not like ice cream – it is like hokey-pokey ice cream: These are all acceptable dessert ingredients, but hokey-pokey got a bad reputation.
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